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Rungis: The Market and the City – A day at Europe's largest fresh food market
A day at Europe's largest fresh food market. Words by Justinien Tribillon. Photographs by Wendy Huynh.
On your way there you will notice that nearly all early-morning encounters are connected to food: bakeries are lit up, with the smell of fresh bread already floating in the air, while supermarket employees wait for duty managers outside their shops’ closed shutters. Three hours before sunrise, some restaurants in the suburbs are already busy serving food to patrons; when I visit in late March, we are in the last days of Ramadan, and Muslim workers who are at the end of their shifts, or about to start them, enjoy suhur before fasting begins at 5.33am. Not only is it the size of a small city, it is hustling like one: across a series of hangars that stretch as far as the eye can see, there are hundreds of lorries manoeuvring, forklift trucks going in all directions, cries and boisterous laughs, the odd trader on his plastic chair drinking instant coffee before hitting the road, with the entire uncanny landscape illuminated by floodlights.
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