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Swede dreams: How Sweden is embracing its sleepy side


Sweden's long, cold nights might put you off going there in winter, unless, that is, you are in search of that elusive 21st-Century luxury: a good night's sleep.

A two-hour ferry ride from Stockholm, in summer it's a popular getaway, luring weekenders and holiday makers with summerhouses, a clutch of restaurants and abundance of nature in which to walk, swim, cycle and kayak. In fact, I find it so soporific that by 20:00 I am ready to retire to my cabin where I hunker down under a duvet and cosy woollen blanket and sleep for an unheard-of 10 hours, waking refreshed to see a sliver of moon above the trees outside. On Svartsö, the 18km trail takes me around the island, past a large freshwater lake and through the thick snow-carpeted pine forest where I spot the odd red squirrel, follow deer tracks and step over a tree felled by a beaver's gnawing.

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