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The city that forgot itself
Greek flags flutter from apartment blocks; Orthodox monks amble along boulevards named after Byzantine emperors and saints.
His highly-educated son, Vasilis Papaioanu, became an active member of the National Union of Greece (EEE), a far-right nationalist group founded in the late 1920s by Ottoman Greek refugees that scrapped with unionised workers, launched pogroms against Thessaloniki’s Jews and collaborated with Nazi occupiers in the Second World War. Throughout the 1920s and until the 1930 friendship pact signed between Greece and Turkey, minarets and mosques tumbled across Thessaloniki as multi-storey concrete buildings rendered in Byzantine Revival style went up, and a Western grid system slotted over the previously only superficially modernised medieval layout. “Their properties were redistributed for the price of a loaf of bread.” In the closing months of the occupation, Nestoras would slip away to the Upper City, where a baby Odyseas was growing up, and whose winding, ambush-primed lanes deterred Nazi patrols: “I would visit Free Greece, where the communist guerrilla youth carried out parades.”
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