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The only tourist in Moldova
Moldova is the perfect antidote to a world where tourists are increasingly shunned, taxed and pushed through sterile resorts
And if that is your perception of this tiny eastern European state, hidden behind Romania, lost like a silver penny between Eurasia’s geopolitical sofa cushions, then you’re not alone: stats show that Moldova gets fewer tourists per head than any country in Europe. Yes they have an old T34 Soviet tank, but they also have a boisterous market where you can buy the finest cherries, the freshest herbs, plus pickled tomatoes, smoked river fish, wild camomile honey and cups of cold kvass (weak bread beer) which is oddly refreshing on hot Moldovan days. After Emilia has shown me, in her Hansel and Gretel kitchen, how to make “Moldova’s smallest sarmale” (delicate cabbage rolls) we think about hiking, boating, cycling or maybe horse riding – which are all available – but as it is gently drizzling, Sergiu takes me to his man cave: a glorious mouldy cellar stuffed with all things fermented, barrelled and distilled, including 118 types of home-made vodka.
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