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The Past, Present, and Future of Lager Yeast
I’m surrounded by hundreds of people—maybe 600, maybe more—who are all drinking great mugs of foamy lager. Some struggle to hold the liter glasses; others wrap a big hand around theirs and gulp. With a deep blast of a tuba, followed by an accordion’s bright wheeze, the brass band starts into another
Hustling waiters, carrying four full mugs of lager in one hand and hoisting trays of food over their shoulders, barge through the crowds of visitors who see this place through their phone screens, sending videos home to friends. No matter how much scientists and historians have searched—and they’ve literally hunted in forests, cellars, and old brewery buildings, and have run all the DNA testing that’s available to them—a void has existed at the heart of what is the world’s most popular and most consumed beer. That process was aided by growing industrialization, with new technologies including artificial refrigeration, pasteurization, filtration, large-scale bottling, and transportation helping make lagers the standardized bright, refreshingly dry, pale beers we know today.
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