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The Secret Alchemy of Making Ice Cream


Ice cream is deceptively simple, but that sweet burst of flavor and soft melt on the tongue is a finicky, frozen science of water, fat, and air delicately held together.

At Tetra Pak’s Product Development Center in Aarhus, Denmark—a lab for the biggest and smallest ice-cream brands to test and taste their latest experiments—air is a precious, invisible commodity. During the freezing stage, in which the mix is cooled to -5 degrees Celsius (23 Fahrenheit) inside a rotating cylinder, the dasher’s scraper knives not only scoop out frozen batches of the good stuff, they also whip in air. Tetra Pak may be more famous for its packaging, but it takes a sizable scoop of the estimated : Each of its continuous freezers pumps out 4,000 liters every hour, typically for small producers looking to scale.

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