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Threads of God

To enjoy the incredibly rare "threads of God," you must make a Sardinian pilgrimage.

Twice a year, pilgrims in Sardinia trek from the city of Nuoro to the village of Lula under cover of night. The serving preparation is similarly uncomplicated: gamey mutton broth and a helping of tangy pecorino cheese. Paola Abraini, one of the masters of su filindeu, says the hardest part is “ understanding the dough with your hands.” She kneads the mixture until it feels like modeling clay, then continues working it into rounded strands.

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