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Three-Dimensional Wave Breaking
We conduct experiments in a wave tank and show that waves with realistic three-dimensional spreading can become two times steeper than two-dimensional waves before breaking, with three breaking regimes identified.
3b it appears that the maximum local surface slope ∣∇ η ∣ ⋆ could potentially collapse onto a single curve when plotted as a function of Ω 0(excluding one large outlying value for σ θ= 0° and Δ θ= 135°, where it was very difficult to distinguish the onset of breaking). A simple parameterization like this, which links a property of the directional spectrum to the global steepness at which wave-breaking onset will occur, has the potential to predict when waves will break in the ocean in a stochastic, phase-averaged framework. Extended Data Table 2 details the coefficients for the parametric curves fitted to experimentally measured values of local slope ∣∇ η ∣ ⋆ and global steepness \({S}_{{\rm{M}}}^{\star }\) corresponding to breaking onset, which are presented in Fig.
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