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Why Do Swallows Fly to the Korean DMZ?
An anthropologist discovers diasporic flights that begin at and return to the waters of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).
WITHIN A FEW HOURS of landing in South Korea from Los Angeles on a hot July day in 2023, I boarded a bus with my suitcase and headed toward the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). Alongside other peace activists and organizers from near and far, I was going to an event commemorating the 70th anniversary of the signing of the armistice between North and South Korea on July 27, 1953—the day that began the longest ceasefire in history. The person sitting next to me on the bus explained that in the past, before the division, when the waters ebbed, people would leave their boats behind and walk across the estuary to meet their family, business partners, and lovers.
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