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Why Italy Fell Out of Love with Cilantro
Coriander went from ancient staple to persona non grata.
Roman chefs prized both the citrusy seeds and pungent leaves of the plant they called coriandrum for sauces, salads, roasts, and flavored beverages, among other dishes. The frequency with which these seeds are found, and the fact that they have been discovered in remote settlements far from centers of power, demonstrates that coriander was consumed by all levels of Roman society. Nemo bis/CC BY-SA 3.0 Modern Italians see coriander as a foreign ingredient that separates them from other groups of people; what Moyer-Nocchi calls a “culinary marker.” “That comes down to a very basic sort of [idea], ‘What are the flavors that are going to express my identity?” she says.
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